Downtime – building some wheels
Recovering from a hard ride is boring. Especially when you get a cold on top and can’t really train or focus. So, I took some time to build up some wheels. Basically I’m playing around with my lightweight hillclimbing set. The front wheel is radial laced and I had the spoke heads facing out. This looks cool, but I’m concerned about stress cracks especially on the light hub I’m using. So, I re-laced it alternately with head out, then in. I’ll give this a ride and see how it goes. I’m not a heavy rider and this wheel is really for hillclimbs only, so I don’t suspect any issues.
When I build wheels like this I generally true them up concentric (roundness) first, then follow by tensioning for wobble. After I get the spokes up to where I like them, I will let the wheel sit for awhile then pre-stress it by applying weight all around and stress relieving the spokes as much as possible. Following that, I’ll loosen the tension to do the final truing , then ride it. Then one more truing pass.
I don’t have a tensionometer here, so I just rely on the ‘feel’ of the spoke and wheel. It turns out that my ‘internal tensionometer’ is pretty close to Sheldon’s ‘tone gauge’. My spokes all sit around a G# or A for a 286mm spoke this is pretty darn close.
Here is a handy chart for those interested in this more empirical method:
http://www.bikexprt.com/bicycle/tension.htm#pitchtable
Since I’m using a carbon rim, I’ll shoot for the low end of tension rather than the high-end to aviod any rim distortion and possible pullouts. These are DT spokes and rated quite high – over 2.0 . My guess is that I’m tensioning them closer to 1.0 or 1.2.
Here’s the result. I’ll go out and hammer on this when I feel a little better. I used basically the same wheel at Kusatsu with no issues whatsoever but I just like to try new variations on a theme.
These rims and hubs are available from yours truly. I’m sourcing them directly from a high quality manufacturer who makes wheelsets for quite a few ‘famous’ brands. If you’re interested, then give me a shout. I can also do the corresponding rear wheel which is nearly unobtanium in the fixie world – a lightweight, tubular, track hub wheel for under $500.








